By Sarah Jane Downing

The wider Regency interval 1795-1820 stands on my own as a tremendous second in model background in contrast to whatever that went prior to or after. It was once the main bare interval on account that old Greece and earlier than the Sixties, and for the 1st time England grew to become a manner impression, specifically for menswear, and have become the toast of Paris. With the traditional regime deposed, courtroom gown grew to become secondary and the season via season flux of favor as we all know it got here into being, aided and abetted by way of the proliferation of latest ladies' magazines.

Such an age of revolution and innovation encouraged a flood of models taking effect from every little thing together with the newly came across treasures of the traditional global, to radical new rules like democracy. It was once an period of contradiction immortalized by means of Jane Austen, who adeptly used the newfound range of favor to brighten up her characters, Wickham's army elegance, Mr. Darcy's understated splendor, and omit Tilney's romantic fixation with white muslin.

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Extra info for Fashion in the Time of Jane Austen (Shire Library)

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38 The commentary on footbinding was informed by an idea novel to eighteenth-century Europe: that the status of women in a society was a primary index to the standard of civilisation in that society. "39 In Barrow's view, the women of antiquity had suffered a degradation "as impolitic as it is extraordinary," but the Chinese excelled even the ancients in the humiliations and restraints they imposed upon women. They deprived them of the use of their limbs and confined them indoors, or alternatively used and abused them in the fields as they might their oxen and asses.

The garment depicted here is Qing dynasty court dress {chaofu), and is distinguished from other official and common gowns by the skirt style of the lower part of the garment, a phenomenon discussed in the following chapter. The shoulder collar (pijian) may also have been in use before the Qing (see Wilson, Chinese Dress, 29). Note the horse shoe cuffs on the robe, and the style of the official hats (winter above, summer below). Fig. 3 Nineteenth-century Qing dynasty courtrobe, acquired by George ("Chinese") M o r rison presumably after the end of the dynasty in 1912.

In dress as in other respects, a society was more commonly represented by reference to its male members. John Barrow early made it plain that when he spoke of the dress of "the common people," he was speaking of the dress of men. Women were appended. More than a century later, J. Dyer 57 Montesquieu, Persian Letters, 49, 58 Goldsmith, Citizen ofthe World, Vol. I, 14. , 12. 35 WAYS O F SEEING Fig. 8 "Braiding the queue," from the collection of the Religious Tract Society. The front of the head was shaven clean, while the hair at the back was cultivated to its maximum length.

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