By Mary Sperling McAuliffe

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A person can be quite warm inside such a shelter as the air is still and heats up from your body warmth and the flames from the primus stove. If it gets too warm though, it starts to be a problem as the walls melt a little and your things get sodden. As long as you sleep inside your bags on a ground sheet, the temperature is really quite comfortable. Many of the early expeditioners have testified to this, perhaps the most prominent amongst them being Victor Campbell’s Northern Party of Scott’s Terra Nova expedition.

It is immaculately restored after many years of painstaking work by the Antarctic Heritage Trust, a group of dedicated historians and volunteers from New Zealand. David Harrowfield, one of the most eccentric yet knowledgeable fellows I’ve ever had the pleasure to meet, was down there working on the huts almost every season. He has also published a book on the heritage sites of the Ross Island region. When they first started work on the historic huts of Ross Island in the late 1950s the old buildings were in various sad states of disrepair, completely filled to the roof with the snow and ice built up over several decades.

It inspires a feeling of silent timelessness. One could almost believe that at any moment Scott and his men would come shuffling in, hang up their deerskin coats and start boiling a brew. Ian and I later had a coffee in the Mactown mess and caught the shuttle bus back to Scott Base. That evening we once more returned to Mactown as we’d been invited to see an art exhibition, so twelve of us piled into the OIC’s Landcruiser and headed off over the hill, driving US-style on the ‘other’ side of the road.

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